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Janice Helland, Professor & Queen's National Scholar, Art History & Gender Studies, Queen鈥檚 University.

Public lecture: 鈥淭ranslating Textiles: 'Private Palaces' and the Celtic Fringe, 1890-1910鈥�.

Reception to follow.

Abstract: In late spring 1894 Millicent, Duchess of Sutherland (1867-1955) opened the first in a series of annual cottage crafts exhibitions meant to promote and sell hand-made textiles produced by cottagers and crofters in Scotland. These displays, which took place in her London home Stafford House considered the 'grandest private house ever built', symbolically endorsed the relationship between Highland identity and urban experience, which had become so much a part of both a romantic vision of the north and internal tourism since the middle of the nineteenth century. This talk will discuss how the tweeds and homespuns were transformed into 'smart gowns', and thus translated from rough Highland cottage craft to valued social signifier within the spaces of the sumptuous London interior. Millicent Sutherland facilitated the transformation and the translation by advising weavers of the latest fashion trends, by wearing tweed and by promoting London tailors such as D. H. Evans of Oxford Street who constructed fashionable garments from 'genuine' Highland tweed.

Janice Helland, Ph.D., is a Queen's National Scholar and Professor of Women's Studies and Art History. Her most recent books are Marketing Craft, Making Fashion: British and Irish Home Arts and Industries 1880-1914 (Irish Academic Press, 2007), Professional Women Painters in Nineteenth-Century Scotland: Commitment, Friendship, Pleasure (London, 2000), Women Artists and the Decorative Arts 1880-1935: The Gender of Ornament (Aldershot, Hants: Ashgate 2002) a book of essays edited with Bridget Elliott (University of Western Ontario), and Local/Global: Women Artists in the Nineteenth Century (Aldershot, Hants: Ashgate 2006) a book of essays edited with Deborah Cherry, and Craft, Space and Interior Design, 1855-2005 (Aldershot, Hants: Ashgate, 2008) a book of essays edited with Sandra Alfoldy.

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